Spicy Catalan Reds for Dad's Day

Cellar Vall Llach, Priorat, Spain

Famous Catalan singer Lluis Llach and his friend Enric Costa founded their winery in 1992 in Porrera, part of the prestigious Priorat appellation just south of Barcelona, Spain.

Llicorella Soil

Slate hillsides here, some with a special "tiger stripe", or "llicorella" soil, produce gorgeous wines from 60-90 year old vine Carignan and Grenache, and more recently planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.

Albert Costa

Today Enric's son Albert Costa  runs the winery and makes the wine.

Three new releases to check out, especially for Father's Day as stand alone gifts or to pair with BBQ, are:

 - 2011 Vall Llach Embruix DOQ Priorat $24.95

 - 2010 Vall Llach Porrera Vi de Vila DOQ Priorat $50

 - 2009 Vall Llach Idus de Vall Llach $65

"Embruix", or "bewitching" in Catalan, is made with the youngest vines - in this case 15-20 years old,  grown in rocky soil in this abundantly warm region. It is soft, plummy, and spicy with notes of dark chocolate, raspberry pie, earth and tar. It is rich and "manly" but very well-balanced.

The quaint, remote village of Porrera is 12 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea and counts just 450 residents. There is more humidity hear on the eastern side of the Priorat appellation, just as there is in Carneros in southern Napa Valley. So the resultant wines are fresher, lighter on their feet, than those grown in the hottest parts. "Vi de Vila" refers to the new list of 12 sub-appellations, ancient villages with prime vineyards, that may now be listed on the label. This blend of the local old vine Carignan and Grenache boasts an alcohol by volume of 15.7%, so do serve with food. It is intense yet light on its feet, with notes of dark cherry, mulberry, aged balsamic vinegar, mushroom, dried herbs, and cedar.

"Idus," named for the Ides of March, has the same blend as "Embruix" (say "Em-broosh"), but the vine age is 50-100 years so the wine is far more complex. This one is 15.4% and has notes of cassis, fig, blackberry cobbler, fennel sausage, slate, vanilla, cigar box, and grilled bread. It is muscular, powerful, intense and focused.

© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Tap It

Are you interested in learning more about wine? 

Check out my new column, Planet Grape, in the new The SOMM Journal, a re-launch of The Sommelier Journal which is complimentary to the trade and to students of wine - subscriptions@sommelierjournal.com.

Planet Grape 

TAP IT

DURING MY ALMOST 11-YEAR TENURE AS Adjunct Instructor at the CIA’s Rudd Center for Professional Development in Napa Valley, I witnessed the birth of wine on tap. Wine Director Traci Dutton was an early adapter, offering a local Sauvignon Blanc on tap at $5 a glass. She was thrilled to pass along cost savings to her guests at the Greystone Restaurant. The same wine bottled sold for $8 to $9 per glass. Today, cost savings have all but vanished. The message is all about being green, clean, and efficient.

Chris Dearden, owner/winemaker of Dearden Wines, says, “From a winemaker’s standpoint, we love wine on tap as it provides a delicious glass of wine we get to the consumer in an extremely ‘green’ package. There is nothing to cause TCA or other off flavors, and it appeals to a broader and younger demographic which we are really trying to attract. Both coasts are embracing this format now, and as usual, it should pervade to the Midwest soon. I currently provide wines to New York, Maryland and California, and am working on Florida, which has just legalized kegged wines to be sold in that market.”

Jess Voss, owner of Jamber Wine Pub in San Francisco, adds, “I chose to do wine on tap because it makes so much sense for restaurants: having the benefit of a lower cost of waste from not having to throw away oxidized wine [serving wine by the glass means the wine can go bad before the whole bottle is sold]. It reduces our carbon footprint by eliminating bottles, corks and labels. Wine on tap makes life a lot easier for inventory and ordering; instead of having to keep track and store numerous bottles, we have 24 kegs.”

Dan Donahoe, co-founder and Chief Growth Officer of Free Flow Wines in Napa Valley, a large provider of wine in traditional metal kegs says, “Premium wine on tap as a category has exploded with growth over just the last 24 months. As more and more high-quality, respected wineries make their fine wines available in keg format across the US, the concept has been proven to work and offer operators and their customers a better glass of wine, every time.”

Metal kegs have to be returned, washed and refilled, adding cost and eating away at carbon footprint savings. Between this and the current drought in California, some producers are switching to “one ways,” such as the TORR Keg with a disposable bladder bag similar to those found in bag in box containers.

Wine on tap is not for everyone. An establishment must have volume and be able to “lock in” their selections until the kegs are empty. And they don’t translate as well into the more formal dining rooms. A small high-end restaurant wine buyer needs the flexibility and convenience of ordering wines by the bottle. Producers and buyers agree. Keg wine is here to stay. For freshness and convenience, wine on tap is a cutting-edge solution.

by Catherine Fallis, MS

The SOMM Journal, p. 36, June/July 2014

A complete archive, which was available originally only to paid subscribers, is also available at no charge here:

http://www.sommelierjournal.com/

I Dare You to Try Sonoma Wines

June 1st is Dare Day.

I dare you to try one of these delicious, refreshing, and well-made Sonoma wines:

2013 J Vineyards Pinot Gris Russian River Valley $23

With pear,lemongrass and honeydew melon notes, this medium-bodied, juicy and refreshing white is delicious as a sipper, and great with spicy dishes too.

2011 Trione Chardonnay Russian River Valley $32

Winemaker Scot Covington is quietly building a reputation for himself as one of the greatest winemakers in California. This Chardonnay, from individual vine blocks on the estate, is rich, round, and opulent with notes of baked apple, almond croissant, and orange blossom honey.

2012 Fog Crest Estate Pinot Noir Russian River Valley $55

From their southeast facing estate vineyard, James and Rosalind Manoogian produce beautiful, small  lot Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Their Pinot Noir is classic RRV with notes of sassafras, dried herbs, ripe cherry and cherry cola.

Enjoy Sonoma wines!

© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Happy Mother's Day from Planet Grape!

We love flowers, we really do, but the typical mail order floral arrangement is disappointing in so many ways. Why not gift mom with something that will delight all of her senses?

Here are Planet Grape's red wine picks for Mother's Day, specially selected by Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, aka grape goddess®


 - 2012 Masut Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Mendocino County $40
This soft, fruity and earthy Pinot Noir has notes of cherry cola, milk chocolate, dried herbs and sundried tomatoes.

- 2011 Wairau River Pinot Noir Marlborough New Zealand $14
Light cherry, wild strawberry, and vanilla notes make this a lovely aperitif wine.

 - 2011 Bethel Heights Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley $32
This zesty, smoky wine has notes of sour cherry, oolong tea and Dr. Pepper.

 - 2010 Blair Estate Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco $35
Richly fruity and lavishly oaky, this is a gorgeous Central Coast selection.

 - 2012 Casa Silva Carmenere Los Lingues Vineyard Colchagua Valley $16
Chile's signature grape, Carmenere, is a rising star - this dark berried beauty is luscious and soft with chocolate and violet notes as well.

 - 2012 Bonny Doon Vineyard Contra Red Wine California $18
This Rhone blend is deeply fruity with notes of mulberry, cherry cobbler, white pepper, celery and bacon. Delicious and well-priced!

 - 2011 Kenwood Vineyards Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain $30
Black fruits, sage, vanilla and mint notes evolve as the wine opens up. Enjoy with a steak or lamb chop.

© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Escape to Argentina with La Posta

Mary Orlin, Laura Catena, and Catherine Fallis MS of Planet Grape

The amazing Laura Catena invited us to her home near UCSF, where she also works as an ER Doc,

to sample her new La Posta wines from Argentina. Along with a great line up of wines:

2012 La Posta Red Blend $15

2012 La Posta Paulucci Malbec $18

2012 La Posta Pizella Malbec $18

2012 La Posta Fazzio Malbec $18

2012 La Posta Bonarda $15

we enjoyed Asado - barbecued beef with Salsa Verde and grilled sausages with

Chimichurri, and Empanadas,

© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

and, were treated to a lively tango performance.

A big thank you to Laura Catena and her importer, Vine Connections.

Planet-Friendly Wine for Earth Day

Sustainable, organic, and biodynamic farming are three methods of growing grapes naturally for the California wine industry. Each has a specific set of rules. All three take into consideration not just … Continue reading →
http://www.basilmagazine.com/drink/


© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Frederick Wildman 2012 Burgundy Barrel Tasting

Temperatures rose quickly in the tent at the Hotel Vitale’s Americano Restaurant last month, and not just because of the unseasonably warm San Francisco weather. Women were swooning over the charming, dapper and very flirtatious Monsieur Patrick Leflaive, of Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet. Members of the wine trade were invited by importer Frederick Wildman to taste barrel samples of the not yet released 2012 wines from Burgundy, France.

Together, brothers Patrick and Olivier produce thousands of cases of high quality red and white Burgundy each year. Their chalky, powerful 2012 Leflaive Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $155 was stunning, while the more moderately priced and silky 2012 Leflaive Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru $32 is a terrific pick for Somms to price under $100 on their wine lists. Martin Sinkoff, Wildman’s Director of Marketing, said, “the market for Burgundy is strong world-wide. That, and low yields in 2011, 2012, and 2013 means that there is price pressure on this vintage.”

Etienne Sauzet, who normally produces ten barrels of Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er Cru $120, will only produce two in 2012. (Note: Etienne Sauzet wines are imported by Vineyard Brands). Jancis Robinson MW called the 2012 vintage “one of the most challenging in recent memory, with frost, hail, storms, rain, sunburn, mildew, and in some cases, rot.” “In 2012 we had hail, frost, and too much rain. On July 3rd, a 20-minute hail storm did major damage. We lost 50% of the crop. In Volnay and Pommard, up to 80% of the crops were lost” said Monsieur Leflaive. “Whites did better. We are pleased, almost.”

Thankfully a warm and sunny summer saved the day, concentrating the remaining fruit and helping it to ripen. Folks shopping for 2012’s need to remember to shop selectively. Whites from the Cote de Beaune offered a rich, creamy mouthfeel if not so much minerality, and Cote de Nuit reds are showing a glossy, silky texture as well. The wines are not as balanced as usual, but offer immediate drinking pleasure. Antoine Vincent of Chateau Fuisse and J. J. Vincent Selections, whose 2012 “J. J.” Bourgogne Blanc $18 was a notable value, said, “the difficulty is always in the vineyard. We had 30% less this year but it had nice concentration. We want balance and power, so we stopped malolactic conversion early to preserve freshness.” The 2012 Chateau Fuisse Pouilly-Fuisse “Marie Antoinette” $24 was another stunning value, and had a gorgeous smoky minerality.

Domaine Armand Rousseau showed four wines from their old vine parcels in Chambertin, a taut, earthy Gevrey-Chambertin, an elegant, silky and perfumed Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er Cru, the Ruchottes-Chambertin “Le Clos des Ruchottes” Grand Cru Monopole, and the Chambertin Grand Cru. The stunning Grand Crus were showing just a hint of what they would become in the decades ahead. Pricing was not yet available, which was probably a good thing.

Stephane Aviron’s Beaujolais-Villages and cru Beaujolais wines, including the gorgeous, dark-berried and smoky 2012 Morgon “Cote du Py” Vielles Vignes $24 commented, “2012 was a correct vintage with a lot of rain, mildew, and a late harvest, so not very good to make a great wine, and they will have a shorter life span.” Why is vintage so important in Burgundy? Does the producer matter more than the appellation/quality level?

© Copyright 2014 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.