THE FATHER OF PROSECCO

Glass of Bubbly Issue 12
May June 2016
by Catherine Fallis
Antonio Carpenè is often referred to as the father of Prosecco, founding Carpenè Malvolti, the first modern winery in the Veneto and the winery that created the style and character that is Prosecco today. He also founded the Istituto Conegliano, now the largest technical winemaking school in the world, and a leader in oenology and viticulture in Italy.

Over the succeeding generations the Carpenè family continues to lead the way for the wines of Italy, founding the Italian Institute of Sparkling Wine with eight other leading companies, moving forward with legislative protection for wine regions and production methods, playing a key role in Federvini, the national wine association, and today chairing the Technical High School Institute for New Technology to improve education and the use of High Tech in the world of Italian Food and Wine.
Representing the fifth generation of her family, today Rosanna Carpenè serves as President of the company and continues to move it forward. Carpenè Malvolti wines are available in more than fifty countries and include Prosecco Superiore (see my review below), Classic Method Sparkling Rose and Brut, Brandy and Grappa.
 
http://winereview.planetgrape.com/oldworldwine_reviews/carpene-malvoti-1868-extra-dry-prosecco-superiore-conegliano-valdobbiadene/

nv Carpene Malvoti 1868 Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbaidene DOCG Veneto Italy PG 90 pts
11%, 750 ml, $20 Lightly effervescent and subtly sweet with notes of lemon bar, apple cider, and almond pine nut cookie.

MALBEC - MAKE MINE FRENCH

Cahors has a soft, supple style all its own.

 

Planet Grape  The SOMM Journal April/May 2016

Malbec is a rock star in our industry. That is if it is from Argentina. There, the transformation from shy, sensitive, earthy and awkward to rich, ripe, super clean and beautifully balanced was so spectacular the wine drinking world took immediate notice. It didn’t hurt that at go time the US dollar’s strength provided a two for the price of one valuation.

Malbec, one of the five varieties used in red Bordeaux, is thought to have originated in South West France, though in Cahors the local name is Auxerrois, suggesting origins in Northern Burgundy. The grape is sensitive to frost, downy mildew, and rot, and has therefore come to reach its pinnacle of varietal expression in warm, sunny Mendoza. I love Mendozan Malbecs because they offer clean, rich, ripe fruit when I’m craving that, and plentiful natural acidity. But some of them are as lavishly oaked as California wines and I find that an obstacle when looking to showcase delicious and especially delicate cuisine. So these days I look to Cahors, especially in light of the trend towards clean wines, made softer and more supple with the addition of well-ripened Merlot - Cahors is required by law to have a minimum of only 70% Malbec so that gives some wiggle room.
Here are my top picks after an extensive regional tasting:

2011 Chateau Eugenie Cuvee Reservee de l’Aieul Cahors AOP South West France  14.5%, $20

This soft, billowy and tart Malbec blended with 10% Tannat has warm, inviting notes of raspberry, morello cherry, fig, date, spearmint, pink rose, espresso bean, cinnamon toast and cedar. Beautifully balanced. Imported by Wine Company, St. Paul MINN

2012 Chateau Bovila Les Quatres Eglisses Cahors AOP South West France  13%, $15

Delicate, pretty, pithy and light, Pinot Noir-like in weight, but with darker fruit along with notes of dark chocolate, mole, seared pork, duck skin, and Angostura Bitters. Imported by Opici Wines, Glen Rock NJ

2011 Chateau Haut-Monplaisir Prestige Cahors AOC South West France  14.5%, $25

Fruity and supple Malbec with notes of cherry cobbler, kirsch, dark chocolate, clove, Sumatran coffee, vanilla bean, and red rose, and tart on the finish. Imported by Vintage 59 Imports, Washington DC

2014 Chateau de Gaudou Cahors AOC South West France  13%, $17

Engaging, spicy and tart Malbec with notes of cherry, plum, leather, chocolate pudding, cigar box and coffee bean. Imported by Grape Expectations, Richmond, CA

2009 Chateau de Chambert Cahors AOP South West France 92 14.5%, $18

Ripe but firm and tart Malbec with notes of cranberry, strawberry. cherry, licorice, fennel, balsam, pine, scrub, white pepper and cardamom. Imported by Touton Selections, NYC

Check out more of our Cahors reviews here:
http://winereview.planetgrape.com/?s=cahors

FROM TUSCANY TO SONOMA - MARTINELLI WINERY & VINEYARDS

The Martinelli family has been growing grapes in the Russian River Valley since the 1800's, when Giuseppe Martinelli and Luisa Vellutini eloped and moved from Tuscany to Sonoma County. In the 1970s third-generation vintners Lee Martinelli Sr. and Carolyn Martinelli assumed leadership and began developing vineyards on family properties throughout Sonoma County.

In 1992 they brought on renowned Winemaker Helen Turley and went on to establish new standards for world-class farming and winemaking within the Russian River Valley. Today Lee Sr. and Carolyn are joined by their four children, who will shape the winery’s future. Lee Jr. and George Martinelli share with their father the role of managing the vineyards. Julianna and Regina Martinelli head up the winery’s hospitality, marketing, communications and sales outreach. Winemaking is directed by Bryan Kvamme, a protégé of Helen Turley, who has been working at Martinelli since 1997. Martinelli Winery & Vineyards  specializes in single-vineyard lots of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah from 450 acres of estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast.

Recently I joined a group of journalists and sommeliers from across the country to visit with the Martinelli's both on their rugged and remote Jackass Hill vineyard at the western end of Russian River Valley not far from the coast, and at their easily-accessible tasting room on River Road. The 2.5 acre hillside, which is a vertiginous 60 degree slope, was planted in the 1890's to Zinfandel and Muscat. Jackass Hill, the steepest non-terraced vineyard in Sonoma, was given its name by the Martinelli's, "as only a jackass would farm a hill that steep."



Across the board, the wines were on the powerful end of the spectrum, with the lowest alcohol level at 14.5 for a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and the highest at 17.5 for the  Jackass Hill Zinfandel, yet the wines were able to express a sense of place and time. Sisters Julianna and Regina regaled us with stories of family traditions including "Breakfast Chardonnay" where they sit in the creek eating bacon and eggs and drinking Chardonnay.


Visit Martinelli Winery & Vineyards here:
Martinelli Winery & Vineyards
3360 River Road, Windsor, CA 95492 707-525-0570, www.martinelliwinery.com
Facebook: Martinelli Winery         Twitter: @martinelliwines      Instagram: martinelliwinery


Read our expert reviews of Martinelli wines here:

 

2013 Martinelli Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley

 

 

2013 Martinelli Chardonnay Bella Vigna Sonoma Coast

 

 

2013 Martinelli Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

 

 

2012 Martinelli Pinot Noir Bella Vigna Russian River Valley

 

 

2013 Martinelli Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge Sonoma Coast

 

 

2013 Martinelli Pinot Noir Water Trough Vineyard Bondi Home Ranch Green Valley of Russian River Valley

 

 

2014 Martinelli Zinfandel Giuseppe & Luisa Russian River Valley

 

 

2012 Martinelli Zinfandel Vigneto di Evo Russian River Valley

 

 

2012 Martinelli Zinfanfel Jackass Hill Russian River Valley

 

 

2013 Martinelli Muscat Jackass Hill Russian River Valley

 

WRATH – A DAILY WALL OF FOG & WIND ROARS INTO SALINAS VALLEY

By Fred Swan

Wrath’s San Saba estate vineyard is not in the Santa Lucia Highlands. It’s darned close though. The vineyard is located at the junction of Foothill Road and River Road, but on the wrong side of Foothill to be within the AVA. The boundary isn’t arbitrary in this case. There is a difference in altitude with San Saba being lower, not on the “highlands.” But soils are essentially the same gravelly loams. For the most part, the climate is also identical, which includes a daily double onslaught of thick maritime fog followed by relentless afternoon winds.

Like the vineyards and wineries which are within the AVA, Wrath specializes in Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. Wrath offers a variety of styles, including oaked and unoaked versions of whites and reds. They also offer vineyard-designate wines from sites within the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.

The cool yet sunny and mostly rain-free climate creates a long growing season. Wrath’s winemaking is fairly hands-off: ambient yeasts, restrained use of oak and minimal filtration. So, the wines can be dark and potent but still present a sweeping range of flavors. There is fruit and some oak, but often a lot of intriguing savory and herbal notes.

Wrath has two tasting rooms. One is in downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea. It’s a nice room and very convenient to Carmel’s other amenities (which are numerous). I really recommend you visit the estate tasting room at San Saba though. That’s the way to really get a sense for the region. Consider taking a glass outside and taking a seat on one of their comfortable Adirondack chairs. Soak up the views.

http://www.wrathwines.com/Visit

Here notes on the Wrath wines I’ve tasted most recently:

2014 Wrath Sauvignon Blanc Ex Anime Monterey County

2013 Wrath Chardonnay Fermata Monterey County

2013 Wrath Pinot Noir Pommard 4/777 Monterey County

2013 Wrath Pinot Noir San Saba Vineyard Monterey County

2013 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard Monterey County

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INMAN FAMILY WINES GO NATURAL

 

Often referred to as “the barometer of Russian River Valley” as she is one of the earliest to harvest her grapes, owner and winemaker Kathleen Inman is quietly making natural wines that feel alive on the palate. This self-proclaimed “grape groper” picks by taste and feel, not by brix, the accumulation of sugar in the grapes. She adds no sulfur, enzymes, water or cultured yeasts during winemaking, and the fruit from her estate is certified organic.

Her specialty is elegant, European-style Pinot Noir, including a rare single vineyard sparkling wine, and her light and very dry Chardonnay and Pinot Gris also reflect the European sense of restraint.


Read our reviews of Inman Family Wines here:

2013 Inman Family Pinot Noir Pratt Vine Hill Russian River Valley

2013 Inman Family Pinot Noir Sexton Road Ranch Sonoma Coast

2012 Inman Family Estate Pinot Noir OGV Russian River Valley

2013 Inman Family Estate Pinot Noir OGV Russian River Valley

2014 Inman Family Pinot Gris Russian River Valley

2013 Inman Family Chardonnay Russian River Valley

2012 Inman Family Estate Blanc de Noir Brut Nature OGV Russian River Valley

STEVEN SPURRIER CELEBRATES 4OTH ANNIVERSARY OF THE JUDGEMENT OF PARIS IN SAN FRANCISCO

                       The Vineyard Relais & Châteaux Hotel, UK and artist Gary Myatt

 

By Fred Swan

 

In 1976, a competitive tasting of French and American wines was held in France. Steven Spurrier, an English wine merchant based in Paris created the event, now known as The Judgement of Paris, to highlight progress made with French grape varieties in the United States. To everyone’s great surprise, the French judges voted California wines best among both the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

 

That was a watershed event for California wine, proof it had the potential to be every bit as good as, if still different than, French wines. But the tasting was just one example of the way in which the history of wine in France, America and England have been intertwined for centuries.

 

 

This week, Steven Spurrier, now among the world’s most respected authorities on wine, is coming to San Francisco to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Judgement of Paris. This is not another competition, nor will the wines be restricted to Cabernet and Chardonnay. It is a celebration of the achievements of all three countries in wine and a

recognition of the influence each has had on the other. And there will be sparkling wine and Pinot Noir and a Rhone variety too.

 

 

The events in San Francisco, a lunch and a dinner, are truly unique opportunities. We will not see their like for the 50th anniversary of the tasting. This is a chance to meet Steven Spurrier, hear his thoughts on the state of Californian and French wine then and now. You can hear the story of the Judgement of Paris directly from him. You’ll taste wines that take us decades back, but also wines that show what’s new and exciting today. If you have a copy of George Taber’s book, The Judgement of Paris, Steven will be happy to sign it too.

 

 

The dinner, on Thursday, May 12 will feature nine wines paired with a four-course dinner. Further details and tickets are available here. The lunch, at noon on Friday, May 13, will include sparkling wine, a commemorative Chardonnay from Grgich and a 2000 Ridge Monte Bello. For more information and tickets for the lunch, see this Eventbrite page.

BIEN NACIDO VINEYARDS - SANTA BARBARA'S GRAND CRU

by Fred Swan

In Burgundy, vineyards which have proved to be the very best over an extended period of time are designated Grand Cru. They also have distinct personalities, making it possible for experts to identify their wines when tasting blind. The United States doesn’t have any official designation of quality for vineyards.

If we did start nominating vineyards for Grand Cru recognition, the Miller family’s Bien Nacido Vineyards in Santa Maria Valley would undoubtedly be among the first. Bien Nacido is now in its fifth decade of providing succulent, expressive grapes. Many vines remain from the original planting, quite a few of those own-rooted. Top California wineries were producing vineyard-designate wines from Bien Nacido before vineyard designates became “a thing.”

Bien Nacido is extensive—more than 800 planted acres—with a variety of soils (15!), slopes, facings and varieties (at least 15!) ranging from Pinot Blanc to Nebbiolo. Best-known, though, are its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. These are so consistent and ubiquitous that many people take their character to represent the Santa Maria Valley AVA as a whole.

But, while wines based on Bien Nacido fruit do demonstrate the general character of the AVA with its long, cool growing season, they really express that particular vineyard or its individual blocks. Differences can be easily discerned while tasting Bien Nacido wines next to those from father south or west in the valley. Another Miller family vineyard, Solomon Hills provides an excellent counterpoint. Exceptional itself, Solomon Hills is several miles west of Bien Nacido and closer to the chilly Pacific than any other vineyard in the AVA.

Bien Nacido Vineyards wines can be distinctly savory. The reds, in particular, are film noir in a glass. They involve us in complex, undulating stories with a brooding, tough-guy hero fighting for justice in a world of ambivalent wines. They are page-turners. Glass emptiers.

Bien Nacido Vineyards is not open to visitors, but they have an estate wines tasting room in adorable, historic downtown Los Olivos. Made by Trey Fletcher,  they are superlative. Try Solomon Hills side-by-side with Bien Nacido. You’ll easily see how distinct the two sites are and how important the Pacific Ocean is as factor in the terroir of California vineyards.

Read our reviews here:
http://winereview.planetgrape.com/?s=bien+nacido+fred+swan