Issue 4, December 2014/January 2015
Planet Grape sends me out to host private and corporate wine
events, which often include a Champagne
sabering performance (see picture with black French silk hand-feathered gown
styled by Material Goods as I saber Krug Champagne for Sinegal Estate Winery’s
Harvest Party in Napa Valley) along with a presentation of wines and
Champagnes. Throughout the year I also attend as many Champagne
trade tastings and luncheons as possible. After tasting hundreds of Champagnes and sparkling
wines from around the world, here are my top ten picks of 2014. Happy sparkling
Holidays!
Champagne Jean-Pierre
& Cedric Bouchard In Florescence La Parcelle Blanc de Noirs Brut nv $103
From the man who is shaking the very foundation of Champagne
with his devotion to single plot, single varietal Champagnes, this naturally
made 100% Pinot Noir is rich and intense with a deep core of chalky minerality
along with pretty red berry fruits and a soft, toasty character.
Champagne Francis
Boulard Grand Cru Grande Montagne Extra Brut nv $80
With only 4.5 cases released to California and only very little to other
markets around the globe, this is indeed a rare, exquisite beauty. From la
petite Montagne de Reims, this 30 to 45 year-old vine Pinot Noir based
Champagne is powerful, austere, minerally and intense.
Champagne Collet
Esprit Couture Brut Ay nv $120
Handcrafted from vineyard to packaging, this feminine cuvee
has notes of vanilla bean, peach, rose petal, and chalk. It is delicate,
ethereal almost on the palate. This is newly available in selected markets in
the USA .
Champagne Jacques
Lassaigne Le Cotet Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut nv $85
The Le Cotet 40-year old-vine Chardonnay vineyard near the
gates of Troyes
shares a vein of limestone soil with Le Mesnil to the north. Jacques’ son Emmanuel takes a natural
approach and even disgorges his bottles by hand. This is a powerful, masculine,
and very mineral-driven style of Champagne .
Champagne Vilmart
Cuvee Rubis Premier Cru Rose Brut nv $75
Another great grower Champagne ,
or récoltant-manipulant – RM for short, this fifth generation family producer
in Rilly-la-Montagne farms naturally and uses oak barrels for first
fermentation. This 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay blend is softly perfumed
with red berry and rose petal notes – a very romantic cuvee.
2004 Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
$90
This “Baby Salon” is a 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Le
Mesnil, whose sister winery just happens to be Salon. For a fraction of the
price of Salon, and without waiting for years for the wine to soften, this
beauty is just the ticket. It has notes of lemon curd, rising bread, chalk and
honey and is delicate and fine on the palate.
2004 Champagne Bruno
Paillard Blanc de Blancs Reims $90
Rich, bone dry, lemony, minerally and yeasty, this elegant Champagne from a classic
vintage delivers the Bruno Paillard signature: “purity, substance, minerality,
and elegance.” Bruno is grooming his daughter Alice to be the next CEO.
2002 Bisol Talento
Metodo Classico Eliseo Cuvée del Fondatore Veneto $70
This elegant Champagne-method sparkling wine from Bisol in Valdobbiadene,
the heart of Prosecco country, is named in honor of the founder, Eliseo Bisol.
Talento refers to high quality Italian sparkling wines made from Chardonnay,
Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco, which undergo second fermentation in bottle and
age a minimum of 15 months on the lees.
2005 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Brut $225
Aged on the lees for 10 years before release, this 100%
Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs is as rich
and decadent as they come – think pumpkin bread and honey-coated brioche and
fruit cake.
1996 Champagne Moet et Chandon Dom Perignon Oenotheque Brut $319
Cellar Master Richard Geoffroy describes this as a tete du
cuvee in its second peak, or
plenitude of development. With extended aging in the Dom
Perignon cellars, this mature Champagne
is rich, complex, and very feminine in style with notes of honey and hazelnuts.
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