22 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015

{ planet grape }

NO BAD RAP FOR THE UNDERAPPRECIATED WINE FROM ANDALUCÍA

by Catherine Fallis, MS

Ace, Goose, Cris—
Can Sherry Get Fancy?

 

LET’S FACE IT, THE STATE OF

Sherry is a sad one. Producers struggle to keep this staid, hand-crafted, under-loved and under-

priced product alive. Marketing campaigns fall flat. Label descriptions get more complicated and

selections multiply, making data entry and warehouse picking a nightmare. No matter how you sell

it, Sherry is not sexy.

Australian rapper Iggy Azalea calls for Ace, Goose and Cris in “Fancy.” Why not add Tío Pepe? After

all, it’s the best-selling dry sherry nobody’s heard of. “Who that? Who that? That do that, do that?”

With no reputation, it can’t be uncool. Uncool, non-conformist, like the original ball-capped,

bearded, skinny-jeaned hipster, who is being edged out by today’s Ubered, Tindered, manbunned

lumbersexual. Rappers went mainstream. Hipsters went mainstream. Why not Sherry? After all, for

mixologists especially, Sherry is a blank space, baby, and I’ll write your name.

Here are a few recommendations from “GB,” or González Byass. Sommeliers, take note. These are

amazing for coursing out in tasting menus and with the $ you save you can pop for the big reds.

Mixologists—whatever tickles your fancy, go for it! They are in order from dry to sweet.

 

González Byass “Tío Pepe” Fino,

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($17.99)

Rich, briney, fruity and piercing, this taste

of salty sea breeze and lemon drops is

unique, refreshing, dry, and lingering. Fino

is the lightest, driest, and least nutty of

them all. Fino is the finest, I like to say.

 

González Byass “Viña AB”

Amontillado Seco Palomino, Jerez-

Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99) This is a

step up from Tío Pepe Fino Sherry, and a

good way to explore the next level. Here

there are brisk salty along with caramel

oak and yeasty oxidative notes. Serve

with Spanish cured meats and cheeses.

 

González Byass “Del Duque” 30 Year

VORS Amontillado, Jerez-Xérès-

Sherry D.O. ($49.99, 375 ml.) Aged for

30 years, this rich, dry 100% Palomino

Sherry offers pungent, intense notes of

fruitcake, caramel, honey, rising bread

and toasted nuts. Serve with earthy

cheeses or with paté de foie on pistachio

crackers or crusty bread.

 

González Byass “Cristina” Oloroso

Abocado Palomino–Pedro Ximénez,

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99)

This Fig Newton–like and intensely

nutty medium-sweet Sherry packs a

punch. Enjoy with soft cheeses or delicate

pastries.

 

González Byass “Solera 1847” Cream,

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99)

This rich sweet cream Sherry (technically

an oloroso dulce) is a blend of

75% Palomino and 25% Pedro Ximénez.

It is round and velvety with notes of

rum raisin ice cream, vanilla bean and

chocolate-covered almonds. Enjoy with

desserts or a nice cigar.

 

González Byass “Nectar” PX Dulce,

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. Andalucia

($23.99) This dessert Sherry, a young

PX, is ideal for any holiday table with its

crowd pleasing notes of dark bitter and

sweet milk chocolate, hazelnut chocolate

spread and vanilla.

González Byass Sherries are imported by Vin Divino

Read our reviews of these wines here:
http://winereview.planetgrape.com/?s=gonzalez+byass