Friday, February 6, 2015

Why Somms Love Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir, “peeno nwaahhr”, is a favorite of sommeliers and winemakers alike. Why? First of all, this noble red variety from France's Burgundy region makes an intensely flavored, complex, high acid wine with incredible longevity. As the climate gets warmer, the fruit becomes riper and more obvious, and the acid softens a bit. The net result in any case is a wine that will not overpower your meal. It is called the most sensuous of wines because of its enticing, sometimes earthy perfume and soft, round, silky, but still structured texture. 

Much of what is considered the best Champagne is Pinot Noir dominated. Beyond France, New Zealand, Oregon, and California have taken this grape variety to the stratosphere, though the style is much more fruit-forward as you would expect with warmer climates. The key for these new world producers is isolating the cooler microclimates such as Central Otago in New Zealand or Willamette Valley in Oregon, or those with extended growing seasons due to coastal fog or high elevations such as Santa Barbara, Santa Lucia Highlands, Carneros, Russian River Valley, and Mendocino in California.

Tip: Winemakers love Pinot Noir because it is so temperamental. They try to tame it and master it, but they cannot. It is impetuous and does what it wants. But when it is good, it is really good.

Pinot Noir is most enviable in its various interpretations as Red Burgundy. From the feminine Chambolle-Musigny to the exotic Richebourg, Pinot Noirs from this small area of France are the role models for the world. No other grape delivers a wine with such heady perfume, silky texture, and primal, earthy flavor. Generally the wines are light to medium bodied, light in color-one of the lightest red wines in the world is aged Domaine de la Romanee Conti (DRC), so the praising of dark inky color as a sign of quality certainly does not apply here. If a Pinot Noir is dark and inky, most likely it has been blended with another variety to achieve this popular, trendy characteristic.

Bollinger and other top Champagnes are another exquisite interpretations of Pinot Noir, all raspberry and lace. New Zealand produces brilliant, acid-balanced versions, as do producers such as Coldstream Hills in Yarra Valley – Victoria, Australia. In the USA, styles include fruity, juicy, and bright versions from the Willamette Valley, Oregon, as well as in cool climate producing areas in California including Mendocino, Russian River Valley and Los Carneros, overlapping Napa and Sonoma counties. Fuller, rounder, deeper styles are found in areas where the effect of hot sun is moderated by cooler morning and evening temperatures from coastal fog or higher elevations, giving a longer growing season and the potential for increased flavor development. These areas include the Santa Lucia Highlands - Monterey, in the North Central Coast, especially those from Gary Pisoni, and some of the longest lived and exotic versions from Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley, and the Santa Rita Hills, all of Santa Barbara in the South Central Coast.

Planet Grape recommends:

2011 Bethel Heights Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Oregon $32, 89 points
- This zesty, smoky wine has notes of sour cherry, oolong tea and Dr. Pepper.

2012 Stoller Family Estate Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Oregon $25, 95 points
 - Soft and inviting with notes of wild strawberry and pink rose. A delicate beauty.

2012 Paul Dolan Pinot Noir Potter Valley Mendocino California $30, 90 points
 - Soft, sexy, ripe, and romantic light bodied and dry red.

2012 Masut Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Mendocino County California $40, 92 points
 - This soft, fruity and earthy Pinot Noir has notes of cherry cola, milk chocolate, dried herbs and sundried tomatoes.

2013 Argus Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros California $42, 98 points
 - Ben and Jerry Cherry Garcia bombshell. Rich, silky palate. A diamond in the rough.

2012 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Carneros California $35, 92 points
 - Sweet ripe berry bowl with a delicate finish. 

2012 Fog Crest Estate Pinot Noir Russian River Valley California $55, 91 points
 - This small-lot Pinot Noir is classic RussianRiverValley with notes of sassafras, dried herbs, ripe cherry and cherry cola.

2012 Ron Rubin Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley $35, 94 points
 - This cool climate Pinot Noir is like a fine young Chambolle Musigny – delicate, elegant, feminine, and slightly earthy.

2011 Trione Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley California $37, 97 points
 - Deep, bold, muscular almost but soft as silk from a winemaker that is going to be famous.

2012 Niner Wine Estate Pinot Noir Edna Valley California $35, 94 points
 - Earth and spice keep things interesting on this lovely Central Coast Pinot Noir.

2010 Blair Estate Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco California $35, 90 points
 - Richly fruity and lavishly oaky, this is a gorgeous CentralCoast selection.

2011 Wairau River Pinot Noir Marlborough New Zealand $14, 87 points
- Light cherry, wild strawberry, and vanilla notes make this a lovely aperitif wine.

2012 Morgon “Cote du Py” Vielles Vignes Cru Beaujolais France $24, 92 points
 - Here is one of the secret values in French red wine – soft, smoky, and sexy like Pinot Noir but always in the mood.

© Copyright 2015 Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis, Planet Grape LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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